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Camillia's Teas. "Of the $2 billion in U.S. sales of traditional (meaning hot) tea last year, specialty teas accounted for $500 million, up from less than $250 million a decade ago," as reported by Amy Cortese in BusinessWeek (3/1/04). Specialty teas? They're different from the regular kind in that they "emanate from the most flavorful leaves at the top of the plant," are "minimally processed and sold loose." No "tea dust" like that filling most tea bags, here. As such, specialty teas have a "complexity of character comparable to fine wine." How does this sound: "Rich, earthy taste with briny overtones ... Complex, fruity flavor with a hint of honey."
That's the kind of patter you might hear at Chez Panisse, www.chezpanissse.com, a Berkeley, Calif. restaurant that employs a "tea sommelier." As you've probably read, however, the taste sensation isn't the only reason for tea's growing popularity: "The flavonoids, tannins and vitamins in tea are believed to have potent antioxidant and antibacterial properties that can help combat everything from cancer and heart disease to the flu." One type of oolong tea, called pu-erh, www.pu-erhtea.com, "lowers triglycerides and reduces hunger -- hence its nickname, the 'diet tea'."
If the flavor or the health benefits don't grab you, maybe the history will: "Legend has it that the Chinese Emperor Shen Nung discovered tea around 2737 B.C., when a leaf from a wild Camellia sinensis tree blew into his cup of boiling water." Can't believe he drank it! Anyway, that's the legend. The fact is that all of today's teas (that is, the non-herbal varieties) come from the Camellia, which "has spawned more than 1,200 varieties" of tea, "which fall roughly into four major categories: black, green white and oolong." If you plan to get into tea, be prepared to spend for it: "These teas can set you back $4 to $11 an ounce (an ounce makes about 20 servings). A box of 100 Lipton tea bags costs around $3."
Tim Manners, editor
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