Health/Beauty

Gillette Glides

No truth to the rumor, apparently, that P&G's Gillette is about to roll out the first ever ten-blade razor, reports Ellen Byron in the Wall Street Journal (2/12/10). "It's not about the blade count," says Matthew Wohl, general manager of male new products and shave care at Procter & Gamble. "Men tell us their number-one need is comfort ... They tell us they want less tug and pull, less irritation." Indeed, on average, "men need to pull through 10,000 to 15,000 beard hairs," and use 150 strokes to do so.

But rather than adding more blades, Gillette "is promising several technological advances" when it introduces its new Fusion ProGlide razor, in both manual and battery-powered versions, this June. These include "blade edges so fine they can only be seen at high magnification, a 'snow-plow guard' that prevents hydroplaning and a new ergonomic grip that improves traction." All of this innovation will come at a price, of course -- a pack of four of the manual cartridges will run $16.99, and the battery-powered $17.99.

This represents "a 15 percent premium to regular Fusion blades, which already run about twice the average price in the category." The ProGlide has been under development for several years, and has been tested on 30,000 men, including current and former P&G CEOs Robert McDonald and A.G. Lafley. Gillette currently "holds more than three-quarters of the U.S. market for razors and blades," with its Fusion line bringing in "$1 billion worldwide each year." Stew Traub, a Gillette research director, is mum about any future innovations, saying only, "I will never say we won't add more blades."

Mark Girls

More than 125 years after David McConnell pioneered Avon, 22-year-old Kristiauna Mangum is "ringing doorbells" for cosmetics on Facebook and Twitter, reports Camille Sweeney in the New York Times (1/14/10). Kristiauna is not an Avon Lady but a Mark Girl, but it's all in the family because Avon launched Mark about seven years ago. Being a Mark Girl means Kristiauna is "one of more than 40,000" young women in North America, "who are changing the nature of direct sales by using the brand's personalized e-boutiques, iPhone app and new Facebook e-shop."

So successful is Kristiauna that she "manages 155 other Mark Girls" at Ohio State University, "selling Mark beauty products and fashion accessories for a commission in the range of 20 to 50 percent." She makes about $800 a month at this, using the proceeds to help pay off her student loans. "It's really a grass-roots kind of thing, hitting the dorms, sororities, Facebook," says Kristiauna. Claudia Poccia, president of Mark, says the concept is a natural.

"We've taken the same DNA of direct selling that has always been a part of Avon's history and applied it to the digital world for our Mark reps to reach our customers," Claudia explains. Mark also features its own product line, offered at relatively lower-price points than Avon products. The products themselves are designed with a younger shopper in mind, as well. Hook Ups, which sell for about $10, are "two-ended cosmetic dispensers that can be customized to connect, for example, lip gloss and lip pencil, eyeliner and mascara." Last year, Mark's revenues were about $70 million.

Boots No. 7

Stefano Pessina sees store-brands, health services and acquisitions driving growth for Alliance Boots pharmacies worldwide, reports Cecilie Rohwedder in the Wall Street Journal (11/20/09). "One of our main projects for the future is to internationalize the Boots brand," says Stefano, who bought Boots two years ago with KKR & Company. "We want to sell more Boots-branded products outside the U.K." Boots's U.K. success is largely propelled by a line of Boots-brand skin creams known as Boots No. 7.

The line is now also available in France and Portugal, but Stefano, a former nuclear engineer and "one of the richest men in Italy," sees his store brand spreading across Europe. As it is, various Boots brands are available in "15 countries, including the U.S," both online and in stores. Boots pharmacies currently operate "in places ranging from Holland to Thailand, and 10 of its biggest U.K. locations feature on-site doctors and opticians. Other services include "cervical cancer vaccinations, nutritional advice and programs to help customers stop smoking."

And then there's Stefano's acquisition strategy, which suffered a setback when he failed to win his bid "to buy part of Sweden's Apoteket retail pharmacy monopoly," via a government auction. Stefano said it was too expensive. His challenges include the company's "debt of over eight billion pounds," and of course today's economy, which maybe isn't a great market for skin creams. But Stefano is nothing but optimistic: "We see more confidence, customers are more keen to shop, even for items that are not really necessary to survive," he says.

The Krankcycle

krankcycle

Johnny Goldberg -- a.k.a. Johnny G -- creator of Spinning, has invented another kind of exercise machine that's just for the arms, reports Sarah Bowen Shea in The New York Times (12/13/07). Known as the Krankcycle, it "can be used either sitting or standing, with the arms moving together or independently to turn height adjustable cranks." It's not the first device that targets the arms, but Johnny says his Krankcycle involves an unprecedented number of muscle groups and also incorporates "the lower body into the work out." Johnny says that's important because most people neglect "the upper body in training ... The arms are underused muscle groups," he says.

Kranking involves "eight different upper-body movements ... that can be combined with a variety of lower-body moves, like standing on one leg, doing lunges, and extending one leg." If that sounds difficult, well, apparently it is (video here). Katrina Lundstedt, a former Ironman triathlete, tried out the Krankcycle after a spinning class and found it quite challenging: "I felt like my shoulders were burning ... My heart rate flew right up. When I stopped, I could hardly hold on to my water bottle," she says. Others reportedly don't know what to make of the Krankcycle at all and are hesitant even to attempt to work it into their workout routines.

Jie Kang, a health and excercise professor, thinks Kranking is good cardiovascular exercise, and can also be good for strength if the resistance is sufficiently high. And it can be good for those with knee or ankle injuries who can't spin or run. It could be a good choice for those "who are overweight, obese, older or pregnant," too. But it's not so great for losing weight because "the larger muscles of the legs and butt burns more calories than working out the smaller ones in the upper body." The greatest challenge at this point actually may be finding a Krankcycle to try, as Johnny G is still "looking for a company to mass produce" them. ~ Tim Manners, editor

No Soap

soap

"In our retronymic age, the stand-alone noun soap is washed up," writes William Safire in The New York Times Magazine (12/16/07). "It now needs a modifier, producing bar soap to distinguish it from body wash." This change in language naturally reflects a change in the marketplace: "Today, according to Andrea Theodore, whose expertise is 'Marketing direction, P&G North America Body Cleansing,' body wash on this continent tops soap in its solid form by 43 percent to 37 percent, with the remainder liquid hand soap (a category for people who apparently doesn't like mushy bottoms of melting solid soap but refuse to use body wash on their hands)."

In Western Europe, meanwhile, "body wash already has 67 percent of the market." This change did not happen overnight -- indeed, the word soap "was coined a millennium ago as the Old English sape and was long associated with a state next to godliness." Soap's slide began about 20 years ago -- August 21, 1987, to be exact -- when, according to William, Women's Wear Daily reported "on the success of a line of Perry Ellis perfumed potions for men and women," along with plans to introduce a "body wash." At least that's the first reference to body wash that William could find. Within two years, it had entered marketing's mainstream as a new category.

Not everyone is happy with this "rejection of the solid form of the old cleansing agent with its 1,000-year-old name." Nat Hilliard, a Stanford University student is among them, and, predictably, blames advertising. As he wrote in the Stanford Daily: "Once a liquid reserved for loofah sponges in the bathtubs of middle-aged women, body wash has taken over, perfuming the armpits of male college students everywhere ... The ads (example here) go as far as to say that if you use body wash in an apartment complex, women in the floors below will want to sleep with you so much that they will pole-dance on your drainage pipes." Says William, "Face it: Sale of soap, or as it now must be called, bar soap, is going down the drain." ~ Tim Manners, editor

Patagonia Values

Tim Manners

McDonald's will never make us thinner, but Wal-Mart just might make us cooler. The difference? Patagonia values. A new Fast Company column by Tim Manners. (more)

Burt’s Bees

"Burt's Bees built the business when they had a lot of white space to themselves ... And now they are the giant," says Karen Young of The Young Group in a New York Times article by Natasha Singer (5/16/07). That "white" space is more accurately "green" space -- and it dates back to 1984. That's when Roxanne Quimby, a graphic artist, met Burt Shavitz, a "photographer-turned-beekeeper." Roxanne "turned his beeswax into candles, hand salves stove polish and lip balm, using old recipes gathered from farmers. She illustrated labels for the products using Mr. Shavitz's bearded face as a logo."

The brand promise then -- and now -- is a simple one. It's that "products virtually free of chemicals are healthier for the skin. Burt's Bees "makes simple products using plain ingredients like milk, honey, beeswax and almond oil, selling them in cheerful, tongue-in-cheek retro packages." Initially sold through "thousands of independent gift stores and pharmacies," Burt's Bees began selling nationally at CVS and Walgreens" about two years ago, but has not lost its authenticity among its public. "They seem like an antiquey, farm-style company," says Jessica Wojcicki, adding: "But then you discover they have lip shines for young Gen Xers like me."

Good to know there are a few "young" Gen Xers left. Anyway, IRI's Leigh Ann Rowinski notes: "Everyone would like to capture that word-of-mouth viral marketing that spreads like wildfire, attracting a young consumer who appreciates authentic niche brands and stays away from mainstream advertising techniques." Truth is, Burt Shavitz sold his share to Roxanne in 1993, and she sold all but a 20 percent stake to a private-equity firm in 2004. Bottom line is, Burt's Bees is "the best-selling mass-market natural personal care brand ... According to the company, the products are now sold in more than 20,000 locations nationwide, up from 10,000 in 2001. Retail sales increased to $250 million in 2006, up from $60 million in 2001." ~ Tim Manners, editor

Killer Kleenex

"It could alter people's perceptions of what a Kleenex facial tissue could do," says Steve Erb, a Kleenex marketing director, recalling the 2004 launch of a new kind of facial tissue infused with germ-killing pesticides, as reported by Ellen Byron in The Wall Street Journal (1/22/07). Kleenex had come a long way since its 1924 introduction "as a handy way for women to remove cold cream from their faces." In the 1930s, it was re-positioned "as a disposable handkerchief." In 1967 it became something of a fashion statement with the introduction of "cube shaped boxes" and in 1981 "Kleenex pioneered the first perfumed tissue with a light floral scent." Somewhere along the way Kleenex became the Google of facial tissues.

However, by the turn of the century, it was casting about for a new point of relevance. Consumers increasingly were using "paper towels, toilet paper and free napkins available at coffee shops and fast-food chains" instead of Kleenex. "Advances in cold therapies" also contributed to sales declines. So, in 2004, Kimberly-Clark, makers of Kleenex, decided it needed to promote a facial tissue that could also kill germs. The idea held promise because "74 percent of consumers" had the "yucky habit" of stashing and re-using tissues. It actually was not the first time Kleenex tried this, having introduced, and subsequently withdrawn, a germ-fighting tissue called Avert Virucidal back in the mid 1980s. Maybe it had something to do with the name?

Kleenex figured it could get it right this time with a better name, a better package and the claim that the new tissue's "middle layer traps and kills 99.9 percent of viruses within 15 minutes." And despite some concern about balancing the brand's gentle image with deadly properties, it launched Kleenex Anti-Viral using the ad tagline: "Ruthless Killer." In addition to lacing the tissue with "citric acid and sodium lauryl sulfate" -- a pesticide -- it also features "tiny blue dots" printed on the middle layer to show "where the antiviral treatment is applied." This required not only EPA approval for the pesticide, but also K-C's willingness to go back to using the dyes it had dropped for environmental reasons. Bottom line is that two years later, the product is a success, having claimed four percent of the U.S. market, and $140 million in global sales across 22 countries. ~ Tim Manners, editor

Kiehl’s Apothecary

kiehls

Described as "a cross between the Smithsonian and Duane Reade," Kiehl's, the apothecary located at 109 Third Avenue in N.Y.C. since its founding in 1851, is a rare place where men and women in white coats actually put their patrons at ease, reports Mike Albo in The New York Times (1/18/07). Kiehl's "displays druggist relics -- old anatomical charts, bottles of potassium chlorate and Epsom salt tins -- in its store as if they were dioramas in the Smithsonian, which, it turns out, holds may old Kiehl's formulas in its pharmacological products collection." The store's clerks are like relics too -- both because they dress in white lab coats and also take a relaxed, low-key approach to helping their customers.

"Hey, find what you're looking for?" At some stores, that line is enough to put some shoppers on edge. But at Kiehl's, the tone is different because it carries "no trace of sales desperation." Sure, the lady in the white coat might tell you about the many great products that might solve your health or beauty problem, but instead of pressure she gives you little samples -- throws 'em in a bag so you can try some before you buy some. That approach apparently dates back only to 1988, when Jami Morse, grand-daughter of Irving Morse (who bought Kiehl's in 1921), took over the store. "A clever marketer, she eschewed pushy advertising and relied on word of mouth while supplying magazine editors with products and expensive gifts."

Most important, "the promotional budget was put back into development of new products," most of which "are still made at its Piscataway, N.J. factory and delivered like fresh-baked bread every day." The kicker is, Kiehl's is now owned by L'Oreal, has been since 2000, and "has exploded onto an international level with more than 25 stores worldwide." But L'Oreal "has pledged to maintain the idiosyncratic environment and to stay as faithful as possible to the formulas Kiehl's developed over its long history." In any case, as Mike Albo points out: "Funny that the one place that actually may have sold snake oil at some time is where you feel no pressure to buy." ~ Tim Manners, editor

Selling Organic

natural cheetos

"If the package does its work, then the food inside doesn't actually have to be organic, only organic-ish," writes Kim Severson in The New York Times (1/3/07). Kim is talking about cuses such as "Chester Cheetah rising gently from a farm field bathed in golden sunlight." That's how Chester appears on the bag of "natural" Cheetos. "From there," she adds, "it's only a matter of time before Cap'n Crunch shows up in a hemp jacket, raising money to save the manatees." That's because "a cause is important," even if "the actual health benefits of a product" really aren't. Buy a box of Koala Krisp, for instance, and "one percent of sales will be spent saving endangered species."

That concept actually dates back at least to the 1970s, when "Mo Siegel began selling Celestial Seasonings tea in boxes with sleepy bears. Tom and Kate Chappell gave up the corporate life to create Tom's of Maine toothpaste. Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield sold ice cream in Vermont using goofy, hand-lettered graphics to tell their story." Today, Hain Celestial Group is traded on Nasdaq, Tom's is "controlled" by Colgate-Palmolive and "Unilever owns Ben and Jerry's." And organic package designs are booming. Of the 17,779 food products introduced in 2006, "3,761 either were organic or had an all-natural claim on the label. But Brian Collins, chief creative officer of Ogilvy's design group, dislikes the trend. "It's aisle after aisle of design desperation," he says.

"It's the bottom of the barrel," agrees Paula Scher of Pentagram, a design firm, citing classic v. natural Lay's brand potato chips. Classic comes in the familiar "shiny yellow bag" while natural "has a brown harvest graphic design, old-timey typefaces and a matte bag. The natural chips cost about 10 cents an ounce more," but "a handful of either still offers 150 calories and 10 grams of fat." In contrast, branding analyst Elizabeth Talerman praises Timberland shoe boxes, which list "the amount of energy it took to make the shoes, how much of that was renewable, whether child labor was used and how many hours per pair Timberland dedicated to community service." She comments: "As soon as the mass market starts to understand these issues more we'll get away from the fields and the giant vegetables and get back to better design." ~ Tim Manners, editor

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